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Synthesis (clothing)
The ''synthesis'' (Greek for something "put together"), probably synonymous with ''cenatoria'', "dinner clothes" (from Latin ''cena'', "dinner"), was a garment or outfit worn in ancient Rome for dining or special occasions such as the Saturnalia. It seems to have been worn by both men and women, and was particularly a fashion of the mid-1st to early 2nd century AD.〔Matthew B. Roller, ''Dining Posture in Ancient Rome: Bodies, Values, and Status'' (Princeton University Press, 2006), p. 34.〕 More is known about the etiquette of wearing the ''synthesis'' than its appearance. It is mentioned mainly by Martial,〔Martial, ''Epigram'' 5.79, 14.1.1 (see also ''CIL'' VI. 2068.8), as cited by Roller, ''Dining Posture in Ancient Rome,'' p. 34; Ethel Hampson Brewster, "The Synthesis of the Romans," ''Transactions and Proceedings of the American Philological Association'' 49 (1918), p. 131.〕 who also uses the word ''cenatoria''.〔Martial, ''Epigrams'' 10.87.12, 14.136 (so too Petronius, 21.5 and 56.9), as cited by Roller, ''Dining Posture in Ancient Rome,'' p. 34.〕 This attire was characteristically colorful, but lacking further description in ancient literature or a secure identification of the ''synthesis'' in art, scholars have viewed it variously as an ensemble or suit, or a single garment that was a sort of robe or tunic-mantle combination.〔Brewster, "The Synthesis of the Romans," pp. 137–138.〕
The ''synthesis'' was part of the urbanite's wardrobe, and fashionable Romans might own several.〔Brewster, "The Synthesis of the Romans," p. 132, citing Martial 2.46 and 5.79.〕 The garment might be conspicuously expensive, and Martial mentions one of his friends giving a fine ''synthesis'' to his mistress on the occasion of the Matronalia.〔Brewster, "The Synthesis of the Romans," p. 133, citing Martial 10.29.3–6.〕 Residents of the municipalities would have rare occasion to wear the ''synthesis''.〔Brewster, "The Synthesis of the Romans," p. 131.〕
The toga, the Roman male citizen's characteristic garment, was cumbersome and considered inappropriate for reclining at dinner. At the same time, exposing too much flesh at dinner was offensive to Romans; funerary dining scenes in Roman art showing bare torsos have a symbolic or religious meaning.〔Roller, ''Dining Posture in Ancient Rome,'' p. 34.〕 The ''synthesis'' was a colorful alternative for private leisure, and wearing it in everyday public life was a faux pas. It could be worn during the day in public only during the Saturnalia, the December festival during which social norms were turned topsy-turvy.〔Brewster, "The Synthesis of the Romans," p. 132.〕 Martial treats the wearing of the ''synthesis'' as characteristic of the holiday, as was the wearing of the "cap of freedom" (''pilleus'').〔Martial 14.1.1–2.〕 It may originally have been women's clothing, adopted by men as part of the holiday's role reversals.〔 Brewster, "The Synthesis of the Romans," p. 141.〕 The emperor Nero was criticized for choosing a loose-belted ''synthesis'' as everyday attire.〔Suetonius, ''Life of Nero'' 51; Brewster, "The Synthesis of the Romans," p. 132.〕
The priesthood of the Arval Brothers wore a white version of the garment at their ceremonial banquets.〔Brewster, "The Synthesis of the Romans," p. 132, citing the ''Acta fratrum Arvalium'' and inscriptions.〕 The officers of the Arvals (''magister'' and ''flamen'') held annual office from one Saturnalia (December 17) to the next.〔Robert E.A. Palmer, ''The Archaic Community of the Romans'' (Cambridge University Press, 2009), p. 112.〕
==References==
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